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Our maximum recommended thickness per layer for Liquid Plastic 2:1 is 1.5 inches, but in reality, it’s a bit more complicated as it depends on the total volume of Epoxy that you’re pouring as well as the room temperature during the curing process. Assuming your pouring at stable room temperature between 65 – 75 degrees F as well as having a fan set up on your project to cool it during the cure, for anything less than 20L (5gal), a 1.5″ layer should cure fine without overheating but for pouring more than 20L we recommend breaking it up into multiple layers of about 1″ per layer to avoid overheating.
You can pour the next layer after the previous pour has gone through its heat cycle, which is usually around 24 hours. The rule of thumb is if you can make a imprint with your finger nail in the epoxy you can pour again and the epoxy will chemically bond to the previous layer. If you’ve passed that point, sand the surface of the previous layer with a high grit sand paper (180-220 grit). This creates a rough surface for the next layer of epoxy to stick to. Once sanded, clean the surface with an alcohol based cleaner like de-natured alcohol to remove all the dust from sanding. After that, you’re good to pour!
Liquid Plastic requires no extra attention to get rid of air bubbles because it releases them on its own due to its long cure time and low viscosity. If you’re pouring over a surface that may release air during the 3-day curing process then those bubbles may get trapped and ruin your crystal-clear look. A sealer coat is advisable in this case. UVPoxy is a much thicker and faster curing epoxy, which requires extra attention to bubbles. A torch or heat gun is advisable for popping any surface bubbles, and slow mixing/folding of the product helps to avoid excess air entrapment in the batch. Using a pressure pot works well for all our products.
Possible causes are: Low temperature. The epoxy will need more time to cure if your room temperature is lower than the recommended range. Applying heat to the project will help it finish curing. Off-ratio mixing. There may have been too much or too little hardener, which directly affects the cure time of the batch. Insufficient mixing. You may not have mixed long enough for the resin and hardener to be adequately mixed for a proper cure. Always mix thoroughly for a minimum of 3 minutes. Incorrect resin or hardener. Using UVPoxy resin or hardener with Liquid Plastic resin or hardener will cause under curing, overreacting, or other adverse effects to the batch.
No, not yet, but we are working hard toward that. However, we do have some products that exceed 70% bio content.
EcoPoxy products do not need finishes. They naturally cure to a high gloss. For a matte finish, you simply sand the surface with 3,000-grit sandpaper. Most oil based finishes should adhere to the epoxy or at least form a film overtop, which can clear it out after sanding. The optimal grit for most finishes is 320 or higher. Proven brands like Osmo, Rubio, and Odie’s oils/waxes have been used with great success by many customers.
There is no window or time for curing that can be missed, so even if your project has been sitting in a cool room for weeks and hasn’t fully cured, taking it indoors or warming it up will allow for the curing process to complete.
For best results, we recommend you use EcoPoxy pigments with EcoPoxy resins. There are other pigments that are also compatible with our products, but they have a lower concentration. Do your own testing, and go with what works for you.
Here are some helpful tips for getting that perfectly smooth finish: If you are applying to wood, a sealer coat is highly recommended as wood is porous. Warm up the resin slightly to increase flow and to improve mixing and air release. After evenly applying UVPoxy, use a torch or heat gun to pop all bubbles that form for the first hour after pouring. Work in a dust-free environment or cover your piece with a tarp once finished to keep particles from landing on your surface.
Because of the additives in GloPoxy that keep the glow ingredients from settling, the resin may become thick and almost solidified. To soften it, simply warm it up and mix it again. That should return it to its original state.
The best way to speed up the cure is by adding heat to the area that your project is in. Every 8C can cut the cure time in half. If the epoxy is heated too much, though, it can cure too quickly and may crack or bubble excessively.
You may have mixed too much hardener or undermined the product. If you pour the Liquid Plastic thinner than a quarter inch thick then it doesn’t generate enough heat to cure properly either. Heating it up or raising the room temperature will help it cure properly.
Hardeners tend to amber over time when exposed to sunlight, air, or humidity. This doesn’t affect the cure or performance of the product. Only the appearance is affected.
The white or crystallized product may form when resin has frozen during shipping or storage. To remove the crystallization, simply heat the resin to 120F-180F for several hours until it clears out completely. Please allow the resin to return to room temperate before use as this does effect the pot life of a batch.
Our products are rated with similar heat resistance to any on the market. No epoxies are heat proof or fireproof so leaving a hot pan or item on the surface will leave a visible mark.
Seal off the edges or surfaces that you’re coating with a thin layer of epoxy prior to pouring. Double and triple check your mold for possible leakage, as this product is super thin and could leak out anywhere. Mix well for several minutes and then let the product sit in the bucket for 10 to 15 minutes to let the bubbles release before pouring. Once poured, keep an eye out for leaks and swirl the metallic pigments (if any) every few hours up until 12 hours after pouring.
Our wood finishing products like UVPoxy and Liquid Plastic are crystal clear once cured. Color can be added with liquid or metallic pigments.
For pours anywhere from 1/4 inch to 1 3/4 inches thick (at room temperature) you should be using the 2:1 Liquid Plastic. If you want to do a slightly thicker pour up to 2” thick to cast/encapsulate items in a glass mold you should be using the 1:1 Liquid Plastic which cures to a semi-flexible finish.
Our epoxies will not stick to mold-release compounds that are designed for use with epoxy. The smooth side of packing tape, wax paper, tuck tape, and similar smooth surfaces are ideal for creating a non-stick surface. Smooth-On makes for great mold-making products.
No, not if the layer is less than a quarter-inch thick. Our products are solvent free and designed to coat right onto solvent-sensitive materials without melting or softening them. However, the bond is permanent.
If stored in a cool dry environment and in sealed containers, our solvent-free products have a near-unlimited shelf life. If the material is more than a year old, you should do a small test to make sure it still performs as expected.
UVPoxy is designed for thin coatings and filling small cracks. It should be used for applications no thicker than a quarter inch. It has a much shorter pot life, which can be as short as 10 to 15 minutes. In contrast, Liquid Plastic 2:1 is a casting epoxy designed for encapsulation and casting. It has a 3-day cure time and can be poured to 1 3/4 inches or less, depending on total volume.
Authorised distributor of Ecopoxy products and maker of custom made, timber slab furniture.
Authorised distributor of Ecopoxy products and maker of custom made, timber slab furniture.